The Magic of Maine

by Nick Scheuer (Moby Nick)

Page 5

The boat watching in Bucks was exceptional, as it was everywhere. Here we saw perhaps the grandest schooner yacht of many on the cruise, and nearby, a Bolger schooner that most certainly was not a "plywood box". The owners were seated in the cockpit, so we were able to exchange pleasantries concerning Bolger's designs as we circled for photos. They of course had noticed our pair of yawls. How could they not?

The Bolger Schooner in Bucks Harbor

We never would've gone to Belfast if only Castine would've had a pump out facility.

"We've been telling people for years that the Cruising Guide is wrong. But they never change the book."

"Where would you suggest we might find a pumpout?"

"Belfast is probably the closest. Will you be staying for lunch?"

"Not if we have to go clear over to Belfast to pump out!"

We had planned to ride the flood (very fast past Castine, it was) up the Bagaduce River and anchor near the headwaters at Northern Bay. Then next day ride the ebb down past Castine again.

Good thing we have the 10-hp Yammerhammer. The fickle zephyrs we'd started out from Bucks Harbor with had disappeared altogether. On the way westward across the northern reaches of the Bay we saw a number of dolphins of a smaller Species than Bottlenose dolphins. They often passed in pairs, and seemed very shy or wary. If we turned toward them, they'd dive and not reappear until some ways past.

Funny thing how cruising works out, Belfast turned out to have a great many charms of her own.

First, there was the young woman Harbormaster. She is very professional and her crew quickly had us pumped out and refueled.

Then there was the farmer on the wharf selling ten-pound bags of red potatoes right out of his pickup. He said they'd easily withstand the rigors of cruising and still be fresh as could be back home in Illinois. Till then, I'd have a new snack food of fresh raw potatoes (I used to peel potatoes for my Mother).

The ROSEWAY and the AMITY in Belfast

Of course the Banks-style Schooner ROSEWAY captured our attention. The crew told us that she'd just been launched the previous week following a three-year refit. And right aft of her was the AMITY, oldest Friendship Sloop afloat. TRUE NORTH was assigned a slip right across from both of them.

Belfast has a great collection of red brick buildings lining the principal streets that rise uphill from the Harbor. The cruising guide points out that the town had burned twice, and they'd hoped rebuilding in brick might be more permanent.

On a walk up through the business district we discovered an interesting little gallery in which we found a small oil painting we liked. Then farther uphill we found a quaint old tavern with one wall partly supported by a great stack of lobster pots on the sidewalk outside. Two beers later we felt suitably refreshed for the walk back to the harbor.

That evening we joined Harry and Alice for a lobster feast in the Wayfarer, a popular restaurant and fish market beside the harbor.

Not long after heading out from Belfast, down the west arm of the Bay, spotty fog began to obscure our vistas as the north end of Illesboro drew abeam. Nevertheless, we were able to spot a large schooner heading north soon enough to position ourselves advantageously.

The TIMBERWIND under full sail

She turned out to be the TIMBERWIND, and under full sail. We had been looking for this particular schooner since day-one.